A long line forms along the street in east London, where patrons eagerly await their turn at Logma, a recently established Iranian-Iraqi cafe in Hackney that has gained significant attention for its sandwiches, which often sell out within an hour or two.
Many visitors are lured by enticing images shared on Instagram, prompting them to start queuing around noon on weekends. Despite the sandwiches being the cafe’s most sought-after item, the owners admit that their creation was somewhat unintentional, stemming from their decision to open before acquiring any plates or cutlery.
Couple Ziad Halub and Farsin Rabiee previously hosted a series of successful supper clubs in London before launching Logma on December 21, coinciding with the Iranian celebration of Yalda, which marks the winter solstice. However, just days after their opening, protests erupted across Iran.
Rabiee reflects on the timing of their venture, describing it as „bittersweet.“ He states, „It’s been a very difficult period for myself as an Iranian and many Iranians.“
In the wake of the protests, which were met with a violent crackdown by authorities and a near-total internet blackout in Iran, Halub and Rabiee took action by offering complimentary coffee and halva, a traditional sweet often distributed during mourning, to those affected by the turmoil.
Community Connection Through Food
As Iranians gathered to observe the Persian New Year, the country faced ongoing bombardment from US-Israeli forces and yet another state-imposed internet blackout, which has now lasted 21 days, marking the longest in the nation’s history, according to monitoring organization NetBlocks.
Rabiee expresses the challenge of promoting their culture during such a somber time, saying, „Some days have felt a bit like: how do we promote a culture or make food from a culture when everyone is mourning? Everyone is in pain, everyone is stressed, but I think it was more important than ever to do so.“
Logma has become a refuge for Iranian customers, who frequently visit to share updates about their families and connect with one another. One regular, Shadan, describes Logma as feeling like a living room, especially for those living in exile or far from their homeland.
Ava, another customer, emphasizes the unifying power of food, stating, „Food always brings people together and it’s nice to show the positive sides of Persian culture, even in a difficult time.“
The Comfort of Culinary Traditions
Atoosa Sepehr, an author and nutritional therapist, highlights the comforting nature of Iranian cuisine, recalling how the aromas of traditional dishes evoke memories of home. After moving abroad, she found solace in cooking and even authored a cookbook inspired by her experiences.
Sepehr shares, „When I came here, I started missing my home a lot […] and one thing that really really helped me was the food, because I noticed as soon as I get Persian ingredients out of the cupboard, the smell takes me back home.“
Currently, she finds herself returning to Iranian cuisine, concerned for her family back home and unable to communicate with them. She notes, „When the smell of Persian food is up in my flat, if I close my eyes, I feel like I am sitting next to my mum and dad.“
A Space for Sharing and Healing
The owners of Logma have designed their cafe to foster connections among patrons. It is not uncommon for visitors to come in, share laughter or tears, and exchange stories with others at the communal table.
Halub explains, „There’s one long communal table, many people have made friends here. When people come here, they sort of let their guard down. They feel like they’re in their grandma’s house.“
As Logma continues to attract a diverse clientele, it stands as a testament to the resilience of community and culture, providing a space for connection and comfort during challenging times.
