Until now.
Dressed portland crab, served with avocado and grapefruit
DAVID LOFTUS
Tables are set in anticipation of service at The Grand Divan.
HELEN CATHCART
“What drew me to this was the reality that most restaurants of this caliber have already disappeared,” King remarks. He is impeccably dressed in a three-piece suit, embodying the sophistication expected in the industry. Over the last fifty years, he has been instrumental in the success of some of London’s most prestigious and beloved dining establishments. His journey began with the relaunch of Le Caprice in 1981—a St James’s venue frequented by celebrities like Madonna and Princess Diana—when King was just 27 years old, alongside his then-business partner Chris Corbin. The duo also created iconic ’90s hotspots such as The Ivy and The Wolseley, which attracted both celebrities and everyday patrons alike. In 2022, after losing control of their restaurant empire, King embarked on a new venture. The opening of Arlington at the former Le Caprice location generated significant excitement, which has since evolved into a consistent affection from both loyal and new patrons, ensuring the restaurant remains bustling. Now, King has taken on the role of steward for another historic London establishment.
“I have always desired it,” King shares regarding Simpson’s, “because I believe it is the grand dame.” He has been attempting to acquire the building since 2000, with unsuccessful bids in 2008 and 2015. “I finally secured it in 2022.”
A booth in The Grand Divan
HELEN CATHCART
Simpson’s features a ‘pies and puddings of the day’ menu.
DAVID LOFTUS
On the ground floor, The Grand Divan is, as King describes, “the famous one.” In its prime, staff would glide around with shining silver trolleys, serving classic British dishes to elegantly dressed diners enjoying a night out in the West End. “Everyone has inquired: ‘Will you still have the trolleys?’” King reveals. “The trolleys originated from the old chess club. They were brought to the table with the roast beef, allowing diners to continue their chess games, as it was more finger food.” Today, the menu retains its reassuringly nostalgic charm: roast beef served from those trolleys, a selection of pies and puddings, and an array of seafood options like prawn cocktails and half pints of prawns accompanied by generous amounts of mayonnaise. “It’s very much of a period,” King acknowledges, “but our executive chef David Stevens and I aim to celebrate British cuisine and demonstrate that the notion of good British food only emerging post-2000 is simply not accurate.”
The Grand Divan will once again feature silver trolley service.
HELEN CATHCART
One of the delights of a restaurant like this is the wealth of heritage to draw from and the stories it can tell. Charming chess motifs can still be found throughout the establishment—mosaic chessboard flooring, chess patterns in the carpets, and even chess evenings held in the private dining area. The upstairs event space, once the ladies‘ restaurant, features a clock in The Grand Divan that is famously stopped at two minutes past one, marking the moment a woman first entered the room in 1984.
Rabbit and tarragon terrine
DAVID LOFTUS
In addition to The Grand Divan, there is Romano’s upstairs (named after a former competitor to Simpson’s that was destroyed during World War II), the classic Simpson’s Bar, and Nellie’s Tavern, located down a staircase. “Nellie’s was inspired by my love for the theatre,” King explains. “There are fewer venues available for people to visit after the theatre, especially for those involved in the productions.” Nellie’s aims to serve as an unofficial West End clubhouse with extended hours, where patrons can enjoy Peach Melbas or scotch and sodas. “It’s a completely different concept from what I’ve done previously,” King notes.
King is well-acquainted with the process of revitalizing and maintaining spaces that hold a special place in the hearts of London diners. “When I opened Arlington, I felt a surge of emotion because of the number of people who came through the door, visibly moved. I witnessed individuals with tears in their eyes, reflecting on the significance of the place over the years.”
The Grand Divan is the most renowned of the restaurants within Simpson’s in The Strand…
HELEN CATHCART
…where a British menu will now be offered.
HELEN CATHCART
Restaurants, according to King, serve as the backdrop for countless life events. First dates, breakups, job interviews, and romantic encounters all unfold within their walls. “Restaurants are integral to our daily lives and our family narratives; our personal histories are crafted there,” he reflects thoughtfully.
“To my surprise, Simpson’s has played a pivotal role in many family stories,” he continues. “When guests enter, I hope their spirits are lifted and their imaginations sparked, as they are transported back in time. The finest restaurants, in my opinion, act as catalysts for the experiences we wish to create.”
Bildquelle: Filipp Romanovski auf Pexels
